Kashmiri

Two decades ago, Kashmiri houseboat-owners rubbed their hands every spring at the prospect of the annual influx of tourists . From May to October, the hyacinth-choked waters of Dal Lake saw flotillas of vividly painted Shikaras carrying Indian families, boho westerners, young travelers, and wide-eyed Japanese. Carpet-sellers honed their skills, as did purveyors of anything remotely embroidered while the house-boats initiated by the British Raj provided unusual accommodation . Then, in 1989, separatist and Islamist militancy attacked and everything changed. Hindus and countless Kashmiri business people bolted , at least 35,000 people were killed in a decade, the lake stagnated, and the houseboats rotted. Any foreigners venturing there risked their lives , proved in 1995 when five young Europeans were kidnapped and murdered.