Kashmiri Houseboats

Two decades ago, Kashmiri houseboat-owners rubbed their hands every spring at the prospect of the annual [blank] of tourists. From May to October, the hyacinth-choked [blank] of Dal Lake saw flotillas of vividly painted shikaras carrying Indian families, boho westerners, young travelers and wide-eyed Japanese. Carpet-sellers [blank] their skills, as did purveyors of anything remotely embroidered while the houseboats initiated by the British Raj provided unusual accommodation. Then, in 1989, separatist and Islamist militancy [blank] and everything changed. Hindus and countless Kashmiri business people bolted, at least 35,000 people were killed in a decade, the lake stagnated, and the houseboats rotted. Any foreigners venturing there risked their [blank] , proved in 1995 when five young Europeans were kidnapped and murdered.